Good Ol' Fake Meat - Ngoc Tho Restaurant (Saigon)

Ok... never heard of good fake meat until I got to Vietnam. Only of the usual suspects in any American hypermarket - fake burgers, fake chicken, fake hot-dogs - full of chemicals, flavorless, and spongy. Well, different story here, in Asia, even though I can't swear it's organic, but at least it has that tofu consistency, it's not mushy and has a taste to die for.

The quest for tasty fake meat in Saigon brought me quite quickly to Ngoc Tho, a little place on an alley off Pham Ngu Lao, in the backpackers' district. It doesn't look inviting, but the menu showcases an endless choice of awesome vegan options for very, very little money:

Vegetarian Fresh Spring Rolls - with a filling of crispy noodles and vegetables, that turned them into the best rolls we had in 10 months:

Fake chicken wings in satay sauce (my favorites by far, much better than the Original Buffalo Wings - shame on me!):

Crispy noodles with vegetables:

Fried rice with vegetables:

Vegetarian Banh Xeo - this version of this dish is much better than the traditional one, because it contains much more vegetables which are meant to make up for the lack of pork in the filling. And they do, believe me.

One more good thing about this kind of places is that they are amazingly inexpensive. Most prices are around 40,000 VND (roughly $2). For all the dishes above, 3 glasses of wine, many beers, and 2 sodas, we paid 450,000 VND ($23).

Ngoc Tho (Thiem Com Chay) - 175/9 Pham Ngu Lao St., District 1 - Ph: (08)38360162. Cash only.

Catinat Cafe

Catinat Cafe is the place that sheltered us for an hour before a boat trip to Vung Tau, away from the madding crowd of cyclo drivers that hunt tourists in the shipyard area. It is located at the Northern end of Dong Khoi, just across the street from Majestic Hotel.



It's nice and comfy, but not one of the nicest in town. And definitely not well stocked. We had to browse the menu three times, as what we wanted was not available. Moreover, as a customer, mastering body-language is always a plus - the waiters do not speak any word of English, even if you would expect that in such a touristy area.

In spite of all these shortcomings, we had a nice time. The fresh juices and coffee are nice, the decor is pretty cheerful and the wi-fi connection works well.  All in all, a good place to stop by or to wait for the hydrofoil to Vung Tau.

People & Commitee (City Hall) in Saigon

The City Hall (or the People's Committee) is located at the end of Nguyen Hue St., on Le Thanh Ton, between Pasteur and Dong Khoi, in the immediate vicinity of Rex Hotel, Vincom Plaza and Parkson Mall. For most locals and visitors, it is one of the most stunning pieces of architecture in the city, boasting French colonial style and covering an impressive area. It was built between 1902 and 1908 for administrative purposes and it still serves the same purpose today. Illuminated from various angles at night, the building is definitely a popular spot for tourists. The best place to take pictures of the building is the little park in front, which also hosts in impressive statue of Uncle Ho, reading a book to a child.

Tax Department Store

(c) VAMP TM Lam Tran

When I am in the city, I go shopping on Sundays. Many times, Saigon Tax Department Store is the place I choose, at the intersection of Nguyen Hue St and Le Loi St in District 1 (across Rex Hotel).
It may be a rather common department store, but it spares you the hassle and bustle of the city, the heat, and the madding crowds of other shoppers and bikers. The place is air-conditioned and managed after Western standards.

It sells everything, from jewelry and electronics, to food and touristy stuff: lacquer ware, silk scarves and T-shirts,bags, fridge magnets, paintings, etc. The selection is wide, but you may not get deals as good as in Pham Ngu Lao area. Anyway, everything is affordable and turns it into a good shopping spot both for middle-class locals and for tourists.

What I find really useful is the supermarket on the first floor (first - by European standards; second - by American). It's convenient and well stocked, both with Vietnamese and Western stuff.

The Supermarket in Tax

Hosehold items isle in Tax

Apparel isle in Tax

You can pay cash (in VND or even dollars) and by credit card. We usually pay around 1 million VND in one shopping round (under $50) for several piece of clothing, food for one week, cosmetics, and occasionally household items.

You can take a break from shopping at SenViet Restaurant or at the Highlands coffee place on the 3rd floor.

SenViet Restaurant (@Tax Department Store)

SenViet restaurant is located on the 3rd floor of the Tax Department Store, which makes it a good place to stop for refreshments or food after a shopping-spree. And maybe that for the same reason it is always almost empty - shoppers probably sit, eat, and go with the speed of the light.

But the food is good. It's not the best Vietnamese cuisine in town, but is tasty and very reasonably priced. The menu is varied and service fast and effective. They serve seafood, snails, frogs, chicken, pork, beef, fish, as well as vegetarian dishes and dessert. Heineken beer is extremely affordable for a location like this.

Sauteed shrimp and vegetables

Vegetables in oyster sauce

It can turn really cold at times because of the very efficient air-conditioning system, but waiters turn it off when prompted. They advertise their website on the menu, but it's only a dead end. Recommended, but not for special occasions (like dates :)

SenViet Restaurant, corner of Nguyen Hue & Le Loi, 3rd floor.

The Elbow Room Bistro & Cafe

I pinned it my favorite Western place in Saigon. I think about what it looks like when it's decorated for Christmas. We went there twice in 4 days. I love it. I wish it were mine.

The Elbow Room  American themed bistro and cafe that truly boasts amazing food and excellent service. We have been in Saigon for over four months and decided that this was by far the best Western food we have ever had here. Not only it is good, but also reasonably priced considering the standards of quality and service. It features a smart casual and cozy atmosphere ideal for relaxing with friends, organizing a birthday party, have a business dinner or lunch, have a quiet American breakfast or enjoying live jazz music on Fridays in the upstairs lounge.

This delicious gem offers a really impressive wine list, as well as a pretty wide range of beers. The menu knocks you off and makes you drool if you crave American food. Breakfast is served all day and consists of pancakes (Lumberjack or with maple syrup), burritos, and eggs (Benedict, Florentine, or omelet). We didn't try any but we will soon.

However, we had dinner there twice and checked out (and loved):

Chicken Tacos

Onion rings

Philly cheese steak burger

Mixed goat cheese pizza with sun-dried tomatoes

Chicken Liver Pâté (with pickled gherkins and Dijon mustard)

The helpings, as you can see, are huge. Last time we went there we were a party of four and paid 1,390,000 VND (roughly $70) for a glass of 12-year old whiskey, 6 beers, a bottle of San Pellegrino, 4 Cokes, and 7 dishes - you can judge for yourself if it's  expensive or not.

We absolutely love this place, including the way it is decorated and, more than that, the staff. Everybody is helpful and considerate, speaks good English, and really knows how and where to pour the drinks in your glass. The Elbow Room also offers a catering service. Their website indicates that the owner, Tristan Ngo, also runs Skewers, a place which serves Mediterranean food and which we will visit soon.

The Elbow Room - 52 Pasteur St., District 1, HCMC. Ph: 3821 4327; www.elbowroom.com.vn; Al major credit cards accepted. Open: 7:30 AM - 11 PM

Food Court @ Parkson Tourist Plaza

I was writing yesterday about Swiss Chalet. I am also going to write soon about Elbow Room, another restaurant that serves Western cuisine. We tried these two in a row and, even if they are not expensive by Western standards, still they weigh a lot on your wallet. But we balanced the food budget on the third evening, when we stopped for dinner on our way home at the food court in Parkson.

It is clean and air-conditioned like any other food court in the world, only it's not that loud. And no wi-fi I am afraid. But the price of food is just perfect. We chose Asian Express and had three dishes (hot pot, a vegetarian kind of stew, and a helping of sauted Chinese cabbage in oyster sauce), 2 glasses of fresh juice (sugar cane and centella), and a Tiger beer for only 178,000 VND ($8).

Hot and spicy seafood hotpot (63,000 VND)

There are other food stalls that sell various food: halal (Pakistani), Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Italian, as well as an all-you can-eat buffet that costs 145,000 VND (by 17:30) and 165,000 VND (after 17:30).

The all-you-can-eat buffet

Parkson Tourist Plaza Food Court - 4th floor @ 35 Le Thanh Ton St., District 1, HCMC

Swiss Chalet Restaurant

Cravings for home food have officially started. Just like the Chinese or any other Asian national away from ho who set up Asian restaurants or market, I want my food! So here we are, looking for nice spots that might work as pacifiers for dinner.

Swiss Chalet is located at 54 Pasteur St. and serves (of course) Swiss food. The venue was completely refurbished and redecorated and the waitresses look like Heidi. Just have a look:

Yes, it is nice, but empty. Probably many foreigners and locals are afraid it's expensive, but it's not. It is on the expensive side of Saigon, but just like many other places that serve Western cuisine. We were a party of three and paid 940,000 VND (roughly 47 dollars) for 6 dishes (out of which one was an all-you-can-eat salad buffet for 120,000 VND), 6 bears, a coke, a bottle of water, and a cup of hibiscus tea.

Pasta with mozzarela and vegetables.

Clear vegetable soup - not only clear, but also hot and a bit spicy. YUMZ.

I know they serve a very good cheese fondue. But I'd rather try some other courses than paying 390,000 VND for a helping of fondue. All in all, we had a great time and would go back soon, especially for the soups and for the salad all-you-can-eat buffet.

Swiss Chalet - 54 Pasteur St., District 1, HCMC. Ph: 08.3915.3983; E-mail: heinzvn@gmail.com

Hoa Tuc Restaurant - A Winner

After more than three months of various dining experiences in Saigon, I picked my favorite. Hoa Tuc was our dining choice on my birthday and we loved it.

Hoa Tuc Specials (c) Domitille Parent. source: Flickr.

It is tucked away on an alley off Hai Ba Trung Street, in what used to be Saigon's opium refinery. There are four other chi-chi restaurants on the same alley, among which Vasco's and Annz. It has a pretty outdoor garden setting, with very comfy chairs and couches, as well as a charming French period inside.

(c) Hoa Tuc Restaurant

(c) Hoa Tuc Restaurant.

The food is just wonderful. It's true it's on the pricey side for Vietnam, but you get exactly what you pay for. On our first time there, we splurged on 2 cocktails, 4 dishes, dessert, and (many bottles of) beer for 1.200.000 VND (roughly $60). We had

Sauteed shrimp in claypot.

Pomello and squid salad.

Fried tofu with lime, pepper, and mint.

Sauteed leaves with garlic.

...and passion fruit custard. Classy Contemporary Vietnamese cuisine.

Hoa Tuc also offers cooking classes and boasts an almost impeccable waiting staff.  Can't wait to go there again soon, really. It sounds like advertising, but I don't care :D.

Hoa Tuc Restaurant - 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St., Ph: (08) 3 825 84 85; www.saigoncookingclass.com

House Maintenance Costs in Saigon

We've been here for 6 weeks now and we've just got our first maintenance bills. So, how much would a couple pay for a 4-BRM house in Binh Thanh? Well, not much at all:

Electric (metered) - $23 (480,000 VND)

Water (metered) - $3.7 (75,900 VND)

Internet - $13.3 (275,000 VND)

Cable - $4 (80,000 VND)

Garbage - $1 (20,000 VND)

Totals - $45 (931,000 VND)

Having a maid is something common and equally inexpensive. Our maid comes once a week and we pay her $1.7 (35,000 VND) /hour. She also pays all our bills whenever we are not at home when the utilities guys come to collect.

Pampering: Venus Spa

Ginger tea and sweet snacks in the lobby as we arrive. Smiles, bows, and giggling red dresses. Hot stone massages in the heat of Saigon. Small dexterous hands playing with my fingers and toes for the obscene amount of $2. Deep massage to the feet that have already explored the city for 6 weeks. High-end French cosmetics for my future facial massages. Small talk in semi-butchered English and more smiles and gratitude for a 1-dollar tip. Would definitely go back.

Venus spa from our roof-top terrace.

Venus Spa - 61 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh District. Ph: 08.38409399; 0169.6099.470; e-mail: venusspa61@yahoo.com.vn